The Bayon Temple stands at the center of Angkor Thom, the ancient walled capital of Cambodia. Built during the late twelfth or early thirteenth century, this massive structure served as the official state temple of the Buddhist King Jayavarman VII. This stone monument reflects the deep religious shift of the empire from Hinduism to Buddhism.
Originally, this sacred monument was designed as a Mahayana Buddhist structure dedicated to the Bodhisattva of compassion, Avalokiteshvara. Over the following centuries, the physical layout and usage of the temple were altered to fit the rise of Theravada Buddhism. Today, the temple remains an enduring symbol of Cambodia's national identity, representing its rich Buddhist cultural heritage to the world.
Unlike the classical and open layout of nearby Angkor Wat, the Bayon lacks its own protective outer walls or surrounding water moats. Instead, the temple is protected on all sides by the massive square moat and stone walls of the capital city. This unique arrangement creates a highly compressed, maze-like atmosphere that makes the massive temple feel tightly framed.
The Secrets of the Smiling Stone Faces
The Bayon is most famous globally for the massive, smiling stone faces carved into the high sandstone towers. Currently, about thirty-seven of these face towers remain standing, holding roughly two hundred of these serene, mysterious faces. Historically, there were once forty-nine of these towers standing before natural wear and attrition took their toll.
Scholars and historians often debate about whom these giant, smiling stone faces are actually meant to represent. Many experts believe they show Lokeshvara, the Buddhist Bodhisattva of compassion, carved in the ideal likeness of King Jayavarman VII himself. However, some local traditions suggest the faces depict the Hindu creator god, Brahma, who is also known for having four faces.
The original name of the temple was actually Jayagiri, which translates from Sanskrit roots as "Victory Mountain". The modern name of Bayon was first coined by a French scholar named Etienne Aymonier in 1880. He believed the local name was a corrupted version of a Sanskrit word representing the celestial palace of the god Indra.
"Changing" Religions
The outer walls of the temple are covered in highly detailed carvings that act as a historical window into ancient times. These extensive bas-reliefs show grand marching armies and dramatic naval battles between the Khmer and Cham forces. They also display ordinary scenes of civilian life, such as busy markets, outdoor cooking, and even people watching animal fights.
Deep within the central tower of the temple, the main religious icon was originally a large Buddha statue seated under a serpent. During the mid-thirteenth century, a Hindu king named Jayavarman VIII took power and decided to revert the state religion to Hinduism. On his orders, the great Buddha statue was removed from the main sanctuary, broken into pieces, and discarded in a well.
Archaeologists finally recovered the broken pieces of this historic statue from the bottom of the deep well in 1933. After being carefully put back together, this sacred statue was placed on display in a nearby pavilion near the temple. Today, this relic serves as a powerful reminder of the temple's turbulent religious history and enduring spiritual legacy.
