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From Zero to Hero: The Journey of Indonesia's Sport Climbing Achievements on the International Stage

From Zero to Hero: The Journey of Indonesia's Sport Climbing Achievements on the International Stage
The journey of Indonesian sport climbing athletes from local arenas to the international stage | Source: desakmaderita01/instagram

Indonesia’s sport climbing has recently begun to show its strength in various international championships. 

Since 1988, Indonesia has consistently won medals from the Olympics, with badminton contributing its first gold medal.

However, in 2024, this previously dominant sport concluded with an underwhelming result for the nation.

On the other hand, the sport climbing discipline, particularly in the speed category, delivered a gold medal at the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Who would have thought that this once-overlooked sport would transform into one of Indonesia’s top-performing events at the international level?

Are Seasians curious about how Indonesia’s sport climbing achievements have evolved from zero to hero? Let’s dive into the full story!

The Journey of Indonesia’s Sport Climbing Achievements

The spectacular performance of the Indonesian climbing athlete as they conquered the international wall | Source: Tojir/ftpi.or.id

Following a long history, sport climbing was first contested. It marked the beginning of national-level championships in 1990 in Jakarta, during the National Wall Climbing Competition (LPDN), and later in 1991 in Padang, West Sumatra.

Several other national events began to emerge significantly, such as the National Championships (Kejurnas), Age Group National Championships (Kejurnas KU), and the sport climbing discipline in the National Sports Week (PON).

Interest in the sport continued to grow, as evidenced by increased participation in events like the Age Group National Championships, according to information from fpti.or.id, Indonesia’s sport climbers have also earned numerous medals in international competitions. 

The country made history by winning two gold medals at the France 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup. In the 2024 edition in Madrid, Indonesian athletes again brought home a gold and a bronze medal.

The gold medal at the 2024 Paris Olympics marked the peak of Indonesia’s sport climbing accomplishments on the global stage. Especially in the speed category, Indonesian climber Veddriq Leonardo held the world record as of April 2024.

Read also: Indonesia’s National Team Tops Southeast Asia in Market Value, Ranks 71st Globally

Despite such significant achievements, Indonesian athletes still face challenges at the international level, including limited training facilities and resources, especially outside Java.

A lack of sponsorship makes it difficult for regional climbing clubs to provide basic equipment such as ropes, harnesses, and specialized shoes.

Additionally, athletes must adapt to evolving international rules and competition formats set by the IFSC.

Route changes in boulder and lead categories demand that athletes and coaches continuously update their strategies and training methods.

5 Outstanding Indonesian Sport Climbers on the International Stage

The unwavering dedication and fighting spirit of Indonesia’s athletes have been key assets in competing at the international level.

Many inspiring stories have also emerged from their journey toward Olympic gold. Here are five Indonesian sport climbers who have achieved international success:

  1. Veddriq Leonardo

Veddriq Leonardo made history at the Paris 2024 Olympics by winning the gold medal in the men's speed climbing event | Source: ifsclimbing/instagram

Born in Pontianak, Veddriq gained global recognition after winning a gold medal in the speed category at the Paris 2024 Olympics. He has also earned multiple gold medals in IFSC Climbing World Cups. His victory marked a new chapter in Indonesia's sport climbing history.

  1. Rahmat Adi Mulyono

Rahmat Adi Mulyono competed at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships held in Bern, Switzerland (SUI) | Source: rahmadadimulyono_/instagram

Rahmat represented Indonesia at the Paris 2024 Olympics but was eliminated due to a false start on his second attempt. He clocked 5.07 seconds in his first run against Joshua Bruyns of South Africa.

Nevertheless, he has secured gold medals at the 2023 IFSC World Cup and the 2023 Asian Qualifier, as well as a silver medal at the 2022 Asian Games and several bronzes at global and Asian championships.

  1. Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi

Desak Made Rita Kusuma competed at the IFSC Speed World Cup in Madrid on October 19–20, 2024 | Source: fpti_official/instagram

Though she did not win a medal at the Paris Olympics, Desak has an impressive track record.

In 2023, she won gold at the Asian Games in China and the IFSC World Cup in Switzerland, along with silver medals at the IFSC World Cups in Jakarta and the USA.

  1. Kiromal Katibin

Kiromal Katibin competed in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Wujiang, China, from April 12 to 14, 2024, and won a silver medal | Source: Kazushige Nakajima/IFSC

Although he didn’t compete in the 2024 Olympics, Kiromal has made a name for himself internationally.

Starting in the lead category, he transitioned to speed climbing in 2016, winning gold in national championships and the 2018 Asian Youth Championships.

He went on to earn silver and bronze at the 2019 Asian Championships and the 2021–2022 IFSC World Cups. In 2022, he broke a world record and won gold at the IFSC Salt Lake City World Cup, though he secured only silver at the World Games in Birmingham.

  1. Rajiah Salsabillah

Rajiah Sallsabillah won first place in the Speed climbing category at the 2024 Neom IFSC Masters | Source: Getty Images/IFSC

Rajiah reached the semifinals at the Paris 2024 Olympics but lost in the third-place match to a Polish athlete.

The hijab-wearing climber won silver at the 2017 Asian Championships in Iran and gold at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France.

She also clinched gold at the 2018 Asian Games, marking a career high at a young age.

These athletes have brought pride to Indonesia on both national and international stages, proving that with dedication and hard work, Indonesians can indeed compete globally.

Development of Training Programs, Organizations, and Climbing Clubs in Indonesia

One key factor behind this success is the development of training programs, organizations, and climbing clubs across the country.

The Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation (FPTI) plays a crucial role in developing training programs and coaching certifications.

These programs aim to build foundational coaching competencies, understand athlete characteristics across different levels, and provide the scientific and practical foundations for further training stages.

Aside from FPTI’s role, the growth of climbing clubs and training centers throughout Indonesia has significantly contributed to athlete development.

These clubs serve as training grounds for enthusiasts to improve their skills and compete at local and national levels.

Schools and universities also play an increasingly important role in promoting sport climbing. Student-athletes' participation in events like the ASEAN University Games shows that climbing is gaining recognition and support in higher education institutions.

References

FPTI. (n.d.). Tentang FPTI.  https://www.fpti.or.id/tentang-fpti/

Kompas. (2024, August 8). Veddriq Leonardo Persembahkan Medali Emas Pertama Indonesia di Olimpiade Paris 2024 dari Panjat Tebing.  https://www.kompas.id/baca/olahraga/2024/08/08/veddriq-leonardo-persembahkan-medali-emas-pertama-indonesia-di-olimpiade-paris-2024-dari-panjat-tebing

Kompasiana. (2024). Tantangan Pembinaan Olahraga Panjat Tebing di Luar Jawa: Sebuah Opini.  https://www.kompasiana.com/indiependent/66f1f5f7ed64156648050b02/tantangan-pembinaan-olahraga-panjat-tebing-di-luar-jawa-sebuah-opini

UKL Fapet Unpad. (2011, April). Sekilas Panjat Dinding di Indonesia. https://www.uklfapetunpad.org/2011/04/sekilas-panjat-dinding-di-indonesia.html

Eiger Adventure Blog. (n.d.). Sejarah Panjat Tebing Indonesia.  https://blog.eigeradventure.com/sejarah-panjat-tebing-indonesia/

Kumparan. (n.d.). 5 Aturan Panjat Tebing yang Perlu Diketahui Pemula.  https://kumparan.com/seputar-hobi/5-aturan-panjat-tebing-yang-perlu-diketahui-pemula-23dnv31xb7k

Vakansi Info. (2024). Atlet Panjat Tebing Indonesia Kembali Harumkan Nama Bangsa, Sukses Raih Emas di IFSC 4 Speed Madrid 2024.  https://vakansiinfo.com/atlet-panjat-tebing-indonesia-kembali-harumkan-nama-bangsa-sukses-raih-emas-di-ifsc-4-speed-madrid-2024/

Scribd. (n.d.). Sejarah Panjat Tebing.  https://www.scribd.com/document/440510873/SEJARAH-PANJAT-TEBING

Brilio. (2024, August 8). 5 Atlet Panjat Tebing Indonesia yang Berprestasi, Veddriq Leonardo Catat Sejarah Raih Medali Emas.  https://www.brilio.net/olahraga/5-atlet-panjat-tebing-indonesia-yang-berprestasi-veddriq-leonardo-catat-sejarah-raih-medali-emas-2408083.html

Antara News. (2024). Panjat Tebing Indonesia Raih Dua Emas pada Piala Dunia di Prancis.  https://www.antaranews.com/berita/3626457/panjat-tebing-indonesia-raih-dua-emas-pada-piala-dunia-di-prancis

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