When mentioning the legacy of British colonialism in Southeast Asia, our minds might immediately turn to Malaysia, Singapore, or Brunei Darussalam. However, Indonesia—specifically Bengkulu—was once part of British imperial ambitions.
Though they ruled for approximately 140 years (1685–1825), they left behind a historical heritage that still stands strong: Marlborough Fort.
Spanning 44,000 m², this fortress is the largest built by the British in Southeast Asia. Located on the west coast of Sumatra, facing the Indian Ocean, its position solidified its role as both a defensive stronghold and a guardian of the spice trade—a commodity fiercely contested by European powers in the 17th century.
Fort York: The Forgotten Precursor
Before Marlborough was established, the British first built Fort York in 1701 along the Serut River. This location was chosen to oversee merchant ships transporting Bengkulu pepper—a commodity dubbed Europe’s “black gold.”
According to The Jakarta Post: Traces of British Colonization in Bengkulu (2014), the fort was designed to repel attacks from the Sultanates of Aceh and Banten, as well as colonial rivals like the Dutch. Unfortunately, it did not last long, as malaria claimed the lives of many soldiers, leading to Fort York’s abandonment.
This failure prompted Joseph Collett, Deputy Governor of the East India Company (EIC), to construct a new fortress in a more strategic location: an artificial hill overlooking the Indian Ocean.
The name “Marlborough” was chosen in honor of John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, a legendary British military commander who triumphed at the Battle of Blenheim (1704). The name symbolized Britain’s legitimized glory in Bengkulu.
Built as a Defensive Stronghold
Construction of Marlborough Fortress began in 1713 under Joseph Collett’s command. Hundreds of local laborers and convicts were mobilized to lay bricks 1.8 meters thick—nearly matching the walls of European fortresses. During this period, civilian officials and military garrisons were divided between the old and new forts.
Construction halted temporarily. On March 17, 1719—just months after the completion of Phase I—the people of Bengkulu revolted against British rule. The uprising was sparked by forced labor and the exploitation of pepper resources. The Dutch (VOC-Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) seized the opportunity to reclaim the region.
The British were allowed to return to Bengkulu in 1720 after intense negotiations. In 1793, the fortress faced another attack by local residents, which resulted in the death of Robert Hamilton, an EIC (East India Company) officer.
Determined to retain control, the British armed the fortress with 72 cannons and dug dry moats filled with wooden spikes to withstand artillery attacks. Its turtle-like design (with pointed bastions at each corner) made it nearly impregnable.
As cited in Benteng Indonesia, Marlborough Fortress ranks as one of Britain’s strongest fortresses in the East, second only to Fort St. George in Madras, India.
From Britain until Indonesia: A Turbulent Ownership History
Britain’s dominance in Bengkulu ended with the 1824 Treaty of London (Anglo-Dutch Treaty). Under this agreement, Britain ceded Bengkulu to the Dutch in exchange for Dutch-controlled Malacca and Singapore.
Marlborough then served as a Dutch military base until 1942. During Japan’s occupation of Indonesia, the fortress was repurposed as a logistical hub.
Post-independence (1945), it briefly became a police headquarters for the Republic of Indonesia. However, the Dutch reoccupied it during the Second Military Aggression (1948–1949). It was fully taken over by the Indonesian National Armed Forces (TNI) in 1950. In 1977, the Indonesian government designated it a cultural heritage site, restored and transformed into a historical landmark.
Architectural Features
Covering 2.7 hectares, Marlborough Fortress blends military and administrative functions. Its main gate on the southwest side is protected by a ravelin (triangular defensive structure) and a retractable wooden bridge.
The fortress is surrounded by a two-meter-wide dry moat, filled with traps, and 2–3 meters deep. Meanwhile, underground tunnels—rumored to connect to the coast—remain shrouded in mystery.
Inside, visitors find military barracks, an underground prison (where Bung Karno was exiled by the Dutch in 1939), a gunpowder storage, and even a small chapel. Notably, its winding corridors were designed to slow enemy advances if breached. Each arrowhead-shaped bastion allowed soldiers to fire in all directions without blind spots.
Untangling History: Duration of Colonization in Southeast Asian Countries
Today, Marlborough Fortress has transformed from a colonial symbol into a captivating historical destination. It stands as one of Bengkulu’s historical icons, celebrated for its unique architecture. Tourists can not only admire its beauty but also trace the footsteps of British colonial governance in Bengkulu.
