Bánh mì might be the first thing that pops into our heads when we think about Vietnamese cuisine. It is a very common dish that Vietnamese people eat on a daily basis, whether as breakfast, lunch, or even just as a snack. And of course, bánh mi becomes a must-try for tourists visiting Viet Nam. While its taste is universally loved, the history behind banh mi is just as fascinating as the sandwich itself.
The history of bánh mì dates back to the colonization era. As we know, Viet Nam was ruled by the French for quite a long time, from 1887 to 1954. The French colonial presence intensified after political tensions rose, including the killing of Spanish missionaries under Emperor Tự Đức’s reign. The Spanish and the French, who were also interested in spreading Catholicism, sent their military fleets after participating in the Second Opium War in China. They quickly succeeded in seizing Vietnam and its surrounding areas in 1862.
French and Spaniard armadas attacking Saigon | Musée national de la Marine
To maintain their diet, the French introduced various livestock and crops into Viet Nam because it was expensive to import their usual food sources from Europe. Unfortunately, wheat as the main ingredient used to make bread, could not grow in Viet Nam. Bread became a luxury item in Viet Nam because the French still needed to import it from Europe. This created a clear divide between the French, who could afford bread, and the locals, who were seen as unworthy of it.
However, the rarity of wheat changed after French troops successfully annexed two large warehouses belonging to German export companies back in Europe. This event flooded Viet Nam with European products like cheese, cold cuts, and bread, items that were previously unaffordable for many. The increasing availability of American goods also made bread more accessible to locals as a daily food.
The true transformation of bánh mì into a distinctly Vietnamese dish began in the 1950s, as French influence started to fade. Previously, locals ate bread like the French does, with butter, cheese, and cold cuts. But after Viet Nam was divided in 1954, with many Northern Vietnamese fleeing south and forming the Republic of Viet Nam, innovation took place. Mr. and Mrs. Lê, two enterprising Vietnamese, are credited with creating the modern bánh mì: a crispy French baguette filled with local ingredients like pickled vegetables, cilantro, chili, mayonnaise, and various meats or tofu.
Bánh mì cart in Hanoi | chrisandhilleary
The concept was practical. At a time when plastic packaging didn't exist, putting the ingredients inside the bread made it portable and easy to eat on the go. Bánh mì quickly became popular in Southern Viet Nam as an affordable, convenient street food, commonly sold from carts and small restaurants.
After the fall of the Republic of Viet Nam in 1975, Vietnamese that went abroad to Europe and America brought all the knowledge and tradition of their food and introduced bánh mì to the world. The dish became very popular and even sold in food trucks and franchised restaurants all around the world.
Bánh mì not only became the national dish of the Vietnamese, but also a symbol of resistance during the colonial era and the division of Viet Nam until it eventually gained popularity abroad as a grab-and-go meal. Whether enjoyed on the bustling streets of Ho Chi Minh City or from a food truck in Paris or Los Angeles, bánh mì continues to connect people across borders through its rich flavors and even richer story.
Source:
Hanoi Times, 2021. Banh mi – the iconic dish of Vietnam. [online] Hanoi Times. Available at: https://hanoitimes.vn/banh-mi-the-iconic-dish-of-vietnam-316727.html [Accessed 23 Apr. 2025].
The Culture Trip, n.d. The Curious History of Vietnam’s Banh Mi Sandwich. [online] Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/the-curious-history-of-vietnams-banh-mi-sandwich#:~:text=The%20b%C3%A1nh%20m%C3%AC%20sandwich%20as,a%20dish%20everyone%20could%20afford. [Accessed 23 Apr. 2025].
