Did you know that during the Dutch colonial period, the Priangan region was famous for its natural beauty and exotic landscapes?
Covering Bandung, Cianjur, Sukabumi, Tasikmalaya, and Garut, the area earned several nicknames, including Europe in the Tropics, Parijs van Java, Geneve van Java, Montpellier of Java, and Switzerland van Java. M.A.W. Brouwer, a Dutch priest, psychologist, and academic who lived in Indonesia in the 20th century, is often quoted as saying that “God created the land of Pasundan when He was smiling.”
Garut stood out as one of the finest tourist destinations in Priangan. It is surrounded by mountains such as Cikuray, Sadakeling, Papandayan, Guntur, Haruman, and Kaledong.
The soil here is very fertile, and the land was planted with coffee, tea, and cinchona, along with large areas of farmland. Wealthy plantation managers and international travelers came to Garut to enjoy the cool air and the wide mountain views.
Legendary silent film comedian Charlie Chaplin was among the famous guests who visited the town. According to the PT Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) heritage page, Chaplin arrived in Garut on March 30, 1932, after visiting Batavia and Bandung.
He stayed for only one night at a local hotel. Some local sources say this was Grand Hotel Ngamplang. Even so, the visit left a happy memory and it gave Chaplin many ideas for his comedy films.
Historical Railway Journeys to Garut
Garut's mountains once kept the region isolated. The roads were steep and winding, so travel by horse cart was slow and hard.
To solve this, the state railway company Staatsspoorwegen built a railway into Garut. Construction began from Cicalengka in 1887. On August 14, 1889, the 51-kilometer Cicalengka–Garut line was opened, and the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies marked the day with a grand celebration. The line was later extended to Cikajang in 1921.
Trains on this line were pulled by the famous "Si Gombar" steam locomotive. Passengers saw sweeping mountains and valleys, crossed long, high bridges, and passed through deep tunnels.
The English traveler H.M. Tomlinson once described his own trip from Batavia. He took the train from Kemayoran Station to Cibatu, changed trains to Garut, and the next morning visited Mount Cikuray. From the top, he saw the green Garut valley and called the place a "Garden of Eden."
Charlie Chaplin's Garut Getaway
Chaplin came by train. The main evidence is a photograph from the collection of Ernst Drissen, who lived in Garut. It was published in the Moesen magazine on January 15, 1995, and is captioned as Chaplin on the platform of Garut station in 1932.
According to local lore, Chaplin returned to the highland town largely because he craved local sheep satay, known as sate domba. Local culinary tradition praised this roasted mutton delicacy for boosting male vitality and physical strength.
Chaplin visited well-known places in Garut. He visited Situ Bagendit and the Cipanas hot springs, then stayed at Ngamplang before heading to Gunung Papandayan.
However, the trains that carried Chaplin did not run forever. The Cibatu–Garut line closed on February 9, 1983, as more people chose cars, buses, and trucks.
For almost 40 years, the old tracks and railway bridges toward Garut stood quiet. KAI began reactivating the line in 2018 and rebuilt three stations: Pasirjengkol, Wanaraja, and Garut.
The line was officially reopened in March 2022, together with new train services to Garut. The aim was to connect Garut’s tourist areas to other cities and help the local economy.
