Coffee beans are typically the main ingredient in every cup of coffee. In West Sumatra, however, Kawa leaf coffee or kawa daun offers an unconventional way to enjoy coffee.
Kawa leaf coffee uses the leaves of the Robusta coffee tree as its primary ingredient. The fresh coffee leaves are smoked until dry before being brewed with hot water.
A strong aroma of wood smoke comes through when tasting Kawa leaf coffee. The resulting bitterness leans mild and refreshing.
Kawa leaf coffee is served in coconut shells resting on bamboo stands. It is also commonly known as kopi kawa. The custom of brewing coffee leaves endures to this day as part of West Sumatra’s Minangkabau drinking tradition.
Colonial Restrictions on Coffee Beans
The origin of Kawa leaf coffee is closely tied to the forced plantation system (Cultuurstelsel) in the mid-19th century. At the time, the Dutch colonial government controlled the entire coffee bean harvest, requiring all yields to be turned over to official warehouses (pankhuis).
The regulations prohibited Minangkabau locals from consuming coffee beans harvested from their own fields. The restriction led them to utilize parts of the tree left untouched by colonial inspectors, which are the leaves.
Leaves from Robusta coffee trees were chosen as an alternative to continue enjoying coffee. Locals referred to Robusta as "old coffee" because of its wide, thick leaves. The mature leaves produced a deeper, more robust brew.
Farmers also collected leaves from regular tree pruning. Pruning branches was done periodically to maintain plantation productivity. The leaves stripped from those cut branches were gathered as household beverage supplies.
The Traditional Wood Smoking Process
Processing Kawa leaf coffee relies on heat from traditional hearths. Freshly picked coffee leaves are gathered immediately in bulk without being washed first.
Bundles of leaves are clamped tightly between two long bamboo splints or sugar palm midribs. Loose individual leaves are impaled on bamboo skewers to keep the stack tidy during smoking.
The bamboo frames holding the leaves are placed over a furnace. Cinnamon wood is frequently chosen as fuel to impart a distinctively sweet aroma. Smoking over the furnace lasts between one to two hours.
High heat and dense smoke rapidly reduce moisture content until the leaves turn a dark brown color. An alternative drying method is done directly above home kitchen hearths that takes over two weeks.
The final drying process yields extremely crisp leaves. The dried leaves are ready to be crushed by hand and steeped in boiling water.
Traditional Way of Serving in Coconut Shells
Serving Kawa leaf coffee preserves the traditional vessel made from smoothed coconut shells. This serving bowl is called a cawan and is supported by a short bamboo tube at the base so it stands upright on the table.
The hot brewed coffee-leaf tea is poured directly into the cawan. The natural insulation of the coconut shell holds the water's warmth without making the outer surface too hot to hold.
Historically, storing the brewed liquid relied on tall bamboo tubes called perian. The opening of the tube was plugged with a clump of black ijuk fibers from the sugar palm tree. This fiber plug kept dust out, preserving the cleanliness of the brewed tea inside.
Kawa leaf coffee can be enjoyed plain without any additions. Granulated sugar or condensed milk is often added to provide sweetness and a richer texture.
A plate of warm fried snacks, such as fried bananas and vegetable fritters (bakwan), is commonly placed on the table. The combination of crispy fried snacks and smoky tea serves as the perfect companion for enjoying Kawa leaf coffee.
Reference:
Novita, R., Kasim, A., Anggraini, T., & Putra, D. P. (2018). Kahwa daun: Traditional knowledge of a coffee leaf herbal tea from West Sumatera, Indonesia. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 5(4), 286–291. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.11.005
